WASHINGTON'S HIGHEST MOUNTAINS
FIRST ASCENT CHRONOLOGY  
             
Sources: Fred Beckey, Cascade Alpine Guides , primary source (fb)
               Harry Majors, Northwest Discovery , Exploring Washington , and personal communication (hm). See notes.
               National Geodetic Survey data sheets (NGS)
Compiled by John Roper based on above (2004)      
             
Rank              
400'P              
List Elev   Name Year Mo Day First Ascent Climbers
1850s  
8 b80 9677   Mt St Helens (b 5.18.80) 1853 8 26or 27 Thomas Dryer, Wilson, Smith, Drew (8/26 per hm1, 8/27 per fb).
3 12276   Mount Adams 1854     A.G.Aiken, Edward Allen, Andrew Burge
1860s            
5 10781   Mount Baker 1868 8 17 Edmund Coleman, John Tennant, David Ogilvy, Thomas Stratton (see hm2)
1870s            
1 14410   Mount Rainier 1870 8 17 Hazard Stevens, Philemon Van Trump (per Fred Beckey)
1 14410   Mount Rainier 1870 10 17 Samuel Emmons, Allen Wilson (First complete ascent to Columbia Crest per Harry Majors. See hm3.)
10 9415   Mount Stuart 1873     Angus McPherson (Possibly 1883 by Frank Tweedy-USGS) See hm4.
1880s            
2 14112   Liberty Cap 1892 7 31 Warren Riley, George Jones, Frank Taggart, Frank Lowe (East ridge from Columbia Crest (hm)
1890s            
4 11138   Little Tahoma 1894 8 29 J.B.Flett, Henry Garrison
6 10520 + Glacier Peak 1897     Thomas Gerdine, Sam Strom, A.H.Dubor, Darcy Bard (USGS)
<400 8680 + Sahale Peak 1897 8   Albert H. Sylvester, John Charlton (USGS)
13 9131   Mount Shuksan 1897     Joe Morovits (hm)
25 8898   Gardner Mountain 1898     Albert H. Sylvester (USGS) or 1899
37 8690   Star Peak 1898     Albert H. Sylvester, C.F. Urquhaart
55 8512   Reynolds Peak 1898     Albert H. Sylvester (USGS) or 1899
1900s            
58 8501   Cashmere Mountain 1900     Possibly. By Robert A. Farmer (USGS) (hm)
14 9112   Buckner Mountain 1901 8 1 Lewis D. Ryan (Washington State Geological Survey)
45 8601   Cathedral Peak 1901 8 3 George Otis Smith, Carl William Smith (his nephew) (USGS) hm6
87 8358   Amphitheater Mountain 1901     George Otis Smith, Frank Calkins
17 9066   Jack Mountain 1904 9 17 Sledge Tatum, George Loudon, Jr. (USGS)
19 8979   Mount Spickard 1904     Walter Reaburn (USGS)
35 8726   Robinson Mountain 1904 9 20 Sledge Tatum, George Loudon, Jr. (USGS)
38 8685   Remmel Mountain 1904 7 26 Sledge Tatum, George Loudon, Jr. (USGS)
91 8333 m Windy Peak 1904 7 6 Sledge Tatum, George Loudon, Jr. (USGS) Poss.1901 Smith, Calkins
100 8306   Castle Peak 1904     Described by International Boundary Commission ECB (E.C.Barnard per HMM)
13 9131   Mount Shuksan 1906 9 7 Asahel Curtis, William Montelius Price (possibly Joe Morovits in 1897) (hm7)
7 10160 + Sherman Peak 1907     Joe Morovits (hm5)
1910s            
76 8400 + Luahna Peak* 1911 8 13 Rodney Glisan, H.H.Prouty, Winthrop Stone, C.W.Whittlesey (Mazamas)
64 8459   Chiwawa Mountain 1911 8 17 Winthrop Stone, and one other member (Mazamas) (hm)
66 8444   Tower Mountain 1913     date on map, by surveyors
1920s            
9 9440 + Colfax Peak 1921     Clarence Fisher, David Anderson, Paul Hugdahl (c.1926 per hm)
64 8459   Chiwawa Mountain 1921     Lorenz Nelson and Mountaineer party (fb)
40 8638   Cannon Mountain 1921     Shortly before 1922, probably by USFS per hm.
83 8366   West Craggy Peak 1925     Lage Wernstedt, 12 photos, nos. 206992-207003 (hm)
23 8956   North Gardner Mountain 1925     Lage Wernstedt, 3 photos, nos. 207172-207174 (hm)
42 8614   Ptarmigan Peak 1925     Lage Wernstedt, 11 photos, nos.207444-207454 (hm)
<400 8397   Blackcap Mountain 1925     Lage Wernstedt, 5 photos, nos.207464-207468 (hm) *
81 8371   Lake Mountain 1925     Lage Wernstedt, 8 photos, nos.207469-207476 (hm).*
63 8464   Lost Peak 1925     Lage Wernstedt, 7 photos, nos. 207487-207493 (hm) *
34 8745   Mount Lago 1925    

Lage Wernstedt, 4 photos, nos.207497-207500 (hm).

But no evidence of previous ascent found by Hermann F. Ulrichs and Dick Alt July 1933 (fb)

50 8587   Osceola Peak 1925    

Lage Wernstedt, 11 photos, nos.207550-207560 (hm).

June 1933 by Hermann Ulrichs, Richard Alt (poss L.Wernstedt) (fb)

27 8876   Silver Star Mountain 1926     Lage Wernstedt, 6 photos, nos.213825-213830 (hm). No cairn found by Hermann Ulrichs in 1932 (fb).
20 8970   Black Peak 1926    

Lage Wernstedt, and one other? (fb) 13 photos, nos.213884-213894, 213896, 213915 (hm)

15 9087   Mount Logan 1926     Lage Wernstedt, and one other? (fb)  7 photos, nos. 213906-213913 with 213909 missing per hm.
1930s            
21 8969   Mount Redoubt 1930     Jimmie Cherry, Bob Ross
88 8347   Snowfield Peak 1931 8 1 William Degenhardt, Herbert Strandberg
71 8421   Dumbell Mountain 1932 8   Richard Alt, George Fahey
<400 9100   Seven Fingered Jack 1932 9 5 Richard Alt, George Fahey (hm)
18 9040 + Mount Maude 1932 8 19 Hermann F. Ulrichs, John Burnett (hm) (7/32 FB)
95 8321   Abernathy Peak 1933 5 29 Hermann F. Ulrichs, Bennett Falkenburg (hm)
47 8595   Mount Carru 1933 6  

Hermann F. Ulrichs, Richard Alt (fb). Poss.Wernstedt 1925 but no photos (hm).

Possibly Eugene Albin, Clint Hanks, Frank Clapsaddle Sept.1928 (per Steve Fry)

28 8868   Eldorado Peak 1933 8 27 Donald Blair, Norval Grigg, Arthur Wilson, Art Winder
11 9249   Mount Fernow 1933 8 28 Hermann F. Ulrichs, Oscar Pennington (hm). 8/1932 per fb.
75 8400 + Azurite Peak 1933 8   Hermann F. Ulrichs, Sydney Schmerling (Lage Wernstedt high in 1925)
68 8440 + Mount Bigelow 1935 7   Bud Brady and companion (hm)
2 14112   Liberty Cap 1935 9 30 Ome Daiber, Arnie Campbell, Jim Borrow (FA Liberty Ridge per FB). See 1892.
12 9200 + Mount Goode 1936 7 5 Wolf Bauer, Phil Dickert, Joe Halwax, Jack Hossack, George MacGowan
59 8511   Martin Peak 1936 7   Ida Zacher (Darr), passing an inscription on the way dated 1901.
24 8920 + Dome Peak 1936 8 1 George Freed, Erick Larson ( On 7/5/1936 Forest Farr, Norval Grigg, Don Blair did SW peak)
8 9511   Bonanza Peak 1937 6 28 Joe Leuthold, Curtis Ijames, Barrie James
22 8964   Copper Peak 1937 9 11 Franklin Bennet, Edgar Courtwright, Toivo Hagman (hm). In August 1937 (fb).
29 8840 + Dragontail Peak 1937 6   William A. Long, Dudley Kelly
70 8422   Emerald Peak 1937     William A. Long
72 8415   NE Dumbell Mountain' 1937 7 4 Ralph Titchenal (per summit register photo by John Roper 1984, and Mike Torok 2004)
94 8325   Mount Formidable 1938 7 25 Calder Bressler, Ray Clough (hm), Bill Cox, Tom Myers.
26 8894   Boston Peak 1938 7 28 Calder Bressler, Ray Clough (hm), Bill Cox, Tom Myers.
99 8311   Luna Peak 1938 9 23 Will F. Thompson, Bill Cox (per summit register at UW per Roger Jung)
69 8440 + Sinister Peak 1939 5 29 Lloyd Anderson, Jim Crooks, Clint Kelley
1940s            
30 8815   Forbidden Peak 1940 6 1 Lloyd Anderson, Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey, Jim Crooks, Dave Lind
60 8485   Klawatti Peak 1940 7 5 Lloyd Anderson, Karl Boyer, Tom Gorton (hm). 7/7 per fb.
67 8440 + Dorado Needle 1940 7 5 Lloyd Anderson, Karl Boyer, Tom Gorton (hm). 7/7 per fb.
86 8360 + Devore Peak 1940 7 28 Everett Darr, Ida Darr, Abigail Avery, Stuart B. Avery, Jane Foster McConnell, Grant McConnell, Paul Parker (per John Roper photo)
97 8320 + Tupshin Peak 1940 9 9 Everett Darr, Ida Darr, Joe Leuthold, Eldon Metzger
98 8320   Mount Flora 1940 9 11 Joe Leuthold, Eldon Metzger (fb). To N Pk 8300+ per hm, with FA of 8320 to Al Gerding and party in 1941.
57 8504   Mox Peaks SE 1941 6 22 Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey
73 8407   Mox Peaks NW 1941 6 21 Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey
82 8366   Golden Horn 1946 9 18 Fred Beckey, Keith Rankin, Chuck Welsh
85 8364   McClellan Peak 1946 7 5 Ken Prestrud, Keith Rankin, William Herston
93 8330 + Big Snagtooth 1946 9 29 Fred Beckey, Jerry O'Neil, Charles Welsh
<400 8440 + Little Annapurna 1948 7 28 Joe Vance, Melvin Marcus, Marvin Lewis, Dick Merritt (hm) 7/47 per fb, and Art Holben, not M.Lewis
53 8520 + Storm King 1948 7   Mazama party of about 30 (hm8)
36 8705   Colchuck Peak 1948 9 11 Elvin Johnson, Norma Johnson, William A. Long, Kathy Long. 8/11/48 per fb.
77 8400 + Pinnacle Mountain 1948 9   Ken Fleming, Dwight Watson (found no cairn, but FA "unknown" ?)
52 8528 + Buck Mountain 1948 9 19 Carl Suback, Ray Rigg (Nov. 1948 Mtr Bull, p.4) (hm). Mazamas? 1926 (fb)
1950s            
56 8508   Primus Peak 1951 8   Les Carlson, Elwyn Elerding, Jeanne Elerding
79 8392   South Spectacle Butte 1953 8 20 Rowland Tabor, Dwight Crowder
43 8605   Sherpa Peak 1955 7 1 Bill Prater, Gene Prater, Dave Mahre
54 8520 e Enchantment Peak 1955 9 20 Fred Beckey (thought N point was higher)
<400 8480 + Mount Rahm 1955 8 5 Joe Hutton, Peggy Hutton, Roy Mason
65 8453   Argonaut Peak 1955 9   Bill Prater, Lex Maxwell, Bob McCall
16 9080 + Lincoln Peak 1956 7 22 Fred Beckey, Wesley Grande, John Rupley, Herb Staley
41 8630   Mount Custer' 1958     Frank Dawe, Roy Mason, Karl Teichman
1960s            
90 8334   Austera Peak 1965 9 16 Joe Firey, Joan Firey, John Meulemans, Irene Meulemans, Tony Hovey
31 8795   Mesahchie/Panther' Pk 1966 7 5 Joe Firey, Joan Firey, John Meulemans, Irene Meulemans
39 8680 + Katsuk Peak/Mt Holyoke' 1968 8 22 John Roper, Chris Roper
1970s            
92 8332   Cosho Peak 1970 6 6 John Roper, Jerry Swanson
46 8600 + Kimtah/Gendarmes' Pk 1970 6 7 John Roper, Jerry Swanson
48 8592   Monument Peak 1978 9 26 John Roper, Fred Beckey
1980s            
<400 8504   Dark Peak 1980 8 10 Russ Kroeker, Dick Kegel, Mike Bialos
<400 8480 + Horseshoe Peak 1980 7 13 Russ Kroeker, Bruce Gibbs, Mary Jo Gibbs (per Russ Kroeker 12/19/04).
FA Unknown          
31 8795   Oval Peak   unk     ? USGS in 1898 with Star
33 8760 + Fortress Mountain   unk     ? With Chiwawa in 1921. Poss about 1944 by USGS per hm
44 8602   Clark Mountain   unk     See 1911.
49 8590   Cardinal Peak   unk     Austin Post found a large old cairn with no register on summit in 1941
51 8580 e? Raven Ridge   unk      
61 8470   Big Craggy Peak   unk     Wernstedt climbed W Craggy, but there is no photo evidence here (hm). 5/29/60 register at UW
62 8464   Hoodoo Peak   unk      
74 8404   Saska Peak   unk      
78 8392   Courtney Peak   unk      
80 8375   Martin Peak   unk      
84 8365   Mt Saint Helens   unk     USGS or strawman
96 8321   Switchback'/Cooney Mtn'   unk     Before 8/15/1974 (hm)
89 8340 e Mount Ballard   unk     The 1962 USGS benchmark was placed by helicopter (NGS)
             
             
Notes            
Harry M. Majors addenda (hm)      
hm1 St. Helens      
  HMM published an annotated analysis of Dryer's 1853 narrative in the Aug. 1980 issue of Northwest Discovery, pp. 164-180.
hm2 Baker        
  Per Harry Majors, the correct spelling is "unquestionably Tennant." John A. Tennant (d. 1893) was one of the more prominent early pioneers
  of the Bellingham area. On July 2, 1870 he accompanied Daniel C. Linsley on the first ascent of Indian Head Peak.
  Indian guides Talum and Squock canoed the 1868 Baker FA party up MFk Nooksack. Their names are now honored by Baker glaciers.
hm3 Rainier        
  The October 17, 1870 party deserves the FA honors of the highest summit on Rainier per Harry Majors.
  Other important ascents are:      
  July 16, 1857 FA of Rainier to Point Success saddle at 14080' at the base of the summit cone by August V. Kautz (FA of Kautz Route)
  1858 (probably) FA to east rim of east crater at 14200', perhaps to Columbia Crest by two unidentified miners (FA of Winthrop-Emmons route)
  August 17, 1870, FA to Point Success 14158 and west crater 14340' by Hazard Stevens and Philemon B. Van Trump (FA by Gibralter Route).
  (Beckey credits this as FA of Rainier.)      
hm4 Stuart          
  Claude E. Rusk wrote in 1924 that Frank Bryant, wilderness man and miner, climbed Stuart on an early (unknown) date where he found a stick
  on top inscribed with the name and date, "Angus McPherson 1873," per hm.
  Frank Tweedy (of Lewisia tweedyi fame) climbed Stuart on August 5, 1883 for USGS. Two days later, Tweedy went back with Richard U. Goode
  (the Good of Mount Goode). They made no mention of McPherson's stick.
hm5 Sherman      
  First ascent in 1907 by Joe Morovits (1964 Mountaineer, p. 82; Aug. 1976 Off Belay, p. 10).
  Beckey credits Valentine V. Lowe and L.L. Bales with the FA of Sherman on June 29, 1884.
  In 1978, Harry Majors published the known surviving accounts of the 1884 Victor V. Lowe and L.L. Bales second ascent of Mt. Baker (1978 "Mount Baker," pp. 208-217). Until then, the existence of this ascent had been entirely unknown to all Northwest historians and scholars.
  Majors' research uncovered that Coleman's 8/17/1868 FA party on Baker had applied the "Sherman Peak" name to the highest point on Baker
  (now labeled as Grant Peak). The 1868 party called the slightly lower central snow dome on the summit plateau "Grant Peak."
  The second ascent party on Baker in 1884 of V.V.Lowe and L.L. Bales reported back that they climbed (Coleman's) "Sherman Peak," Baker's high point..
  Later the Sherman name was moved to its current position, and the early terminology led to errant credit on the FA of Sherman Peak 10160+.
hm6 Cathedral Peak   George Otis Smith called this "Cathedral Rock."
hm7 Shuksan        
  Beckey states Morovits may have climbed Shuksan, but leans to giving FA credit on Shuksan to Curtis and Price in 1906.
  Per Curtis, "There was no trace of a previous ascent; no rocks had been disturbed and no cairn built." However, he also writes of a
  possible cairn-buster, "Nearly every rock on top was scarred by lightning, some being fused to glass."
  Majors feels Morovits' 1897 ascent (possibly with others) is probably legitimate based on records from Claude E.Rusk,mountaineer, attorney, AAC founder,
  who climbed Baker in 1903 and visited Morovits in his cabin on Swift Creek at the base of Baker and Shuksan.
hm8 Storm King      
  Art Winder told Harry Majors that he and Forrest Farr climbed Peak 8120+ (0.5 mi. E of Park Creek Pass) on July 26, 1933, not Storm King.
             
hm The order of peaks climbed by Lage Wernstedt is speculated from photo number data provided by Harry Majors.

      *    Based on research by Harry Majors (1973), confirmed at a different source by Roger Jung (2005), Lage Wernstedt made FAs of these peaks definitely in 1925,               not 1926, a possibility surmised in CAG-3. 

          Other updates to CAGs:

          1868 (Baker): Tennant is correct spelling, not Termant. 

             1937 (NE Dumbell): Titchenal is correct spelling, not Titterud.

             1938 (Formidible and Boston): Ray Clough is correct, not Ralph.

         

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