First
Ascents in the Washington Cascades
On the way
up these North Cascades peaks and pinnacles, we wondered if anyone
had ever climbed them. Atop these summits, there was no evidence
of previous ascent.
Many thanks
to my friends named below who came along, delighting and suffering.
These peaks are presented in chronologic order of our climbs.
This a work in progress, starting with scanning and posting photos.
Stories will follow. It's a lot quicker to climb them than
write about them. Come on back.
Thumbnails
link to a page about that peak or the quad. Click
'Back' (not X) to return to this summary page.
John Roper
'
indicates the peak name applied by our party
"
indicates other unofficial name
Elevations
listed are generally those that were
on the map at the time of the climb. So elevations that may seem
peculiar now are likely those shown on the 15-minute USGS quads
rather than the newer 7.5-minute quads.
First
Ascent Cell Map of the North Cascades (Big
version)
Thanks
to Eric Noel
_____________________________________________
1944-1970
peaks are on this page.
FAs
(first ascents) start in 1966.
1971-76
1977-78
1979-80
1981
1982
1983
1984
1985
1986-90
1991-2000
2001-2005
2005
2008
1944
Newhalem,
WA
Viewed
from Trappers Peak
Map
Born
in 1944, I was lucky to grow up in the middle of the mountains before
they were civilized, when Newhalem was the very end of the road,
and from there, a train only ran to Diablo Dam. You could take a
boat up Diablo and Ross Lakes, but otherwise travel was on foot.
This
was before the North Cascades National Park (1968) and its popularity,
before the North Cross-State Highway (1972), before detailed guidebooks
and guided mountain tours, before flagged routes up pristine wilderness
mountainsides and bootpaths through the bush, before raft trips
down the Skagit, even before contour maps to the land east of Newhalem,
before the internet, and websites. It's
not the same now as it was then. I was
lucky enough to find these nuggets still laying in the bottom of
the pan.
My
heartfelt thanks to my parents, Virginia Roper and Jack Roper,
and
my sister, Maurine.
1953
Little
Si
at
the base of Mount Si
USGS
North Bend
Map
My
first "mountain."
Not
a first ascent (FA), of course
Age
9
July
1953
1963
Trappers
Peak
USGS
Mount Triumph
Map
My
first wilderness peak
No
evidence of previous ascent, but not a first ascent
Viewed
from Newhalem. Camp Nurse Mountain on right.
June
15, 1963
Thanks
to Tex and Monte Steere
1966-1970
5
Years
15
FA Peaks
On
5 Quads
1966
*
12Jul The Roost' (6705)
USGS Mount Triumph
*
28Jul X Mountain' (5965)
USGS Mount Triumph
*
28Jul Arc de Triumph' (6080+) USGS Mount Triumph
1967
*
23Jul Damnation Peak (5635) USGS Damnation
Peak
*
26Aug The Bat' (6475)
USGS Eldorado Peak
*
27Aug The Coccyx' (7280+)
USGS Eldorado Peak
*
27Aug Perdition Peak' (7675) USGS Eldorado
Peak
1968
*
12Jun Honeymoon Hump' (7690) USGS Mount
Arriva
*
22Aug Mt Holyoke'/Katsuk (8680+) USGS Mount Logan
*
23Aug Little J-Berg'/Arches' (7945) USGS Mount Arriva
*
24Aug Cub Peak' (7985)
USGS Mount Arriva
*
24Aug Kitling Peak (8003)
USGS Mount Arriva
1969
*
14Jun Baby Cheek' (7360+)
USGS Mount Arriva
1970
*
6Jun Ragged End'/Cosho (8332)
USGS Mount Logan
*
7Jun Gendarmes Pk'/Kimtah (8600+) USGS Mount Logan
___________________________________________
1966
The
Roost'
USGS
Mount Triumph
Map
My
First First Ascent (FA)
July
12,1966
Thanks
to Taffy Roper
X
Mtn'
The
shark fin right of center
Trappers
Peak on left
USGS
Mount Triumph
Map
July
28, 1966
Thanks
to Bill Chase and Taffy
Arc
de Triumph'
USGS
Mount Triumph
Map
Thornton
Lake in foreground, Mount Triumph through left notch
July
28, 1966
Thanks
to Bill Chase and Taffy
_____________________________________________
1967
Damnation
Peak (per map )
USGS
Damnation Peak
Map
July
23, 1967
Solo
The
Bat'
USGS
Eldorado Peak
Map
August
26,1967
Thanks
to Phil Dahl
The
Coccyx'
USGS
Eldorado Peak
Map
August
27, 1967
Thanks
to Phil Dahl
Backbone
Ridge'
(L)
to (R) Perdition Peak', In Spirit Peak',
Cervical
Peak', Thoracic Peak', Lumbar Peak'
USGS
Eldorado Peak
Map
August
27, 1967, July 30-31, 1972, August 15, 1981
Thanks
to Phil Dahl, Steve Shelton, Theresa Smith, Silas Wild, and Russ
Kroeker
Photo
by Monte Steere
Backbone
Ridge'
(L)
to (R) Perdition', In Spirit', Cervical', The Osteophyte',
Thoracic',
Lumbar', Herniated Disc', and The Sacrum'
Perdition
Peak'
USGS
Eldorado Peak
Map
August
27, 1967
Solo
_____________________________________________
1968
Honeymoon
Hump'
center,
Kitling Peak right, Mesahchie
Peak left
USGS
Mount Arriva
Map
June
12, 1968
Thanks
to Chris Roper
Ragged
Ridge
(L)
to (R): Ragged End' (Cosho), Gendarmes Peak' (Kimtah), Mount Holyoke'
(Katsuk),
Panther
Peak' (Mesahchie). Little J-Berg in foreground.
USGS
Mount Logan and Mount Arriva
August
22-24, 1968 and June 6-7, 1970
Thanks
to Chris Roper and Jerry Swanson
Photo
by John Meulemans
Mount
Holyoke' (Katsuk Peak)
on
right, Panther Peak' (Mesahchie Peak) left
Little
J-Berg ' to right of Katsuk
USGS
Mount Arriva
Map
August
22, 1968
Thanks
to Chris Roper (our ascent was the second on Mesahchie)
See
Top 100 page
Little
J-Berg' (Arches')
USGS
Mount Arriva
Map
August
23, 1968
Thanks
to Chris Roper
Cub
Peak'
USGS
Mount Arriva
Map
August
24, 1968
Thanks
to Chris Roper
Kitling
(Don't') Peak
on
right. Honeymoon Hump' in front of Mesahchie Peak left center
USGS
Mount Arriva
Map
August
24, 1968
Thanks
to Chris Roper
_________________________________________
1969
Baby
Cheek' landform
Right
of Graybeard Peak' (done June 17, 1969 on its 2nd Ascent)
Easy
Pass just off the photo to right
USGS
Mount Arriva
Map
June
16, 1969
Thanks
to Tex and Monte Steere
_________________________________________________
1970
Ragged
End' (aka Cosho Peak)
on
left, Thieves Peak', right
USGS
Mount Logan
Map
June
6, 1970
Thanks
to Jerry Swanson
See
#92 of Top 100 Peaks in WA
Gendarmes
Peak' (Kimtah Peak)
and
Ragged End' (Cosho Peak)
USGS
Mount Logan
Map
June
7, 1970
Thanks
to Jerry Swanson
See
#46 of Top 100 Peaks in WA
_________________________________________________________
1971-76
page
6
Years
11
FA Peaks
On
4 Quads
1971
*
18Sep Newhalem Peaks' (6920+) USGS Eldorado Peak
1972
*
2Jul Thunder Peak' (8800+) USGS Eldorado Peak
*
30Jul Lumbar Peak' (7040+) USGS Eldorado Peak
*
30Jul Thoracic Peak' (7170) USGS Eldorado Peak
*
30Jul Cervical Peak' (7360) USGS Eldorado Peak
*
31Jul In Spirit Peak' (7480) USGS Eldorado Peak
1973
*
7Jul The Blip' (7400) USGS Mt. Challenger
*
11Aug The Tack'(7400+) USGS Mount Arriva
*
12Aug New Morning Peak'(7230) USGS Mount Arriva
1974-75
No FAs
1976
*
8May The Haystack (7139) USGS Diablo Dam
* 25Jul Mt Benzarino (7720+)
USGS McGregor Mountain
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
1977-78
page
2
Years
14
FA Peaks
On
6 Quads
1977
*? 5Aug Interloper'/Berdeen'
Peak (6400+) USGS Damnation
Peak
1978
*
6May Logger Butte' (6080+) USGS Damnation
Peak
*
4Jun The Trap' (6960+)
USGS Cascade Pass
*
17Jun Highest Hellion' (6324) USGS Big Devil Peak
*
17Jun Hellion II' (6240+)
USGS Big Devil Peak
*
4Jul Gendharma' (7740+)
USGS Mount Spickard
*
4Jul Traquility Gendarme'(7374) USGS Mount Spickard
*
29Jul The Saint' (7185)
USGS Mount Prophet
*
30Jul The Sinner' (7035)
USGS Mount Prophet
*
30Jul The Apostle' (6910)
USGS Mount Spickard
*
30Jul The Epistle' (6782)
USGS Mount Spickard
*
30Jul Revelations Peak'
USGS Mount Spickard
*
26Sep Monument Peak (8592) USGS Mount Lago
See #48
of Top 100 Peaks in WA
*
15Oct Borborygmi'/Rhino Butte'(6914) USGS Mount Prophet
_________________________________________________________________
1979-80
page
2 Years
19 FA Peaks
On 8 Quads
1979
*
2Aug Jagged I' (7882)
USGS Mount Shuksan
*
11Aug Mad Eagle Peak' (8111) USGS Mount Redoubt
*
12Aug Moving Mtn' (8080+)
USGS Mount Redoubt
*?13Aug
Cave Mountain' (7456) USGS Mount Redoubt
*?13Aug
Old Rust' (7523)
USGS Mount Redoubt
*
14Aug Taps Mountain' (7087) USGS Mount Redoubt
1980
*
1Jun ExSpire' (5999-)
USGS Eldorado Peak
*
5Jul Tombstone' (7895)
USGS Mount Spickard
*
5Jul Solitude' (8405)
USGS Mount Spickard
*
27Jul Squatter' (6719/6680+) USGS Mount Blum
*
27Jul Panner' (6800+/6944) USGS Mount Blum
*
29Jul Iota' (7680+/7800+) USGS
Mount Challenger
*
29Jul Thayers Nightmare' (7997-) USGS Mount Challenger
*
29Jul Apparition' (7998-)
USGS Mount Challenger
*
29Jul Spectre' (7999-)
USGS Mount Challenger
*
31Jul Fury Finger' (8080+) USGS
Mount Challenger
*
31Jul N Dog Ear' (7840+)
USGS Mount Challenger
*
24Sep W Helen Butte (5499-) USGS Marblemount
*
10Oct Three Wives' (7450) USGS McAlester
Mountain
_______________________________________________________________
1981
*
26Apr The Supervisor'
*
26Apr Wireman'
*
26Apr Senior Operator'
*
26Apr Machinist'
*
31May Styloid Peak' (6972)
*
31May Distal Phalanx' (7615)
*
3Jul Tara Pk' (6723)
*
11Jul Dirk Peak' (7640+)
*
27Jul Devils Toothpick' (7720+)
*
28Jul W by NW Mox' (8080+)
*
15Aug The Sacrum' (7148)
*
15Aug Pancake Pinnacle' (7080+)
*
23Aug S Hoot Owl' (7960+)
*
23Aug N Hoot Owl' (7920+)
*
14Sep Derci Spire' (8000+)
*
14Sep Obsession Spire' (7360+)
*
17Sep Zebra Spire' (8000+)
*
17Sep V Peak' (8000+)
*
25Oct Ezekiel' (7521)
__________________________________________________________
1982
*
30May Blink Mtn (6766)
*
30May Rapid
Peak (7259)
*
19Jun Fallen Angel' (6840)
*
19Jun Hellion III'
*
19Jun Hellion VI'
*
20Jun Hunich Pipe' (~6700)
*
17Jul The Horseman (~8100)
*
7Aug W Nail' (~8000)
*
7Aug E Nail' (~8000)
*
7Aug W Horseshoe Pk' (~8000)
*
22Aug Gramps Peak' (6680+)
*
24Aug Goose Step Pinnacle' (7400+)
*
25Aug Goat Hoof' (7100)
*
25Aug Primrose Peak' (7160+)
*
25Aug Rim Rock Peak' (7240+)
*
25Aug Flat Peak' (7100)
*
26Aug Sister Sarah' (7000+)
*
26Aug Sister Habiba' (7160+)
*
26Aug Sister Sue' (6809)
*
26Aug Little Sister' (6785)
*
5Sep Beheaded Dog Burying Bone' (7035)
*19Sep
Pachyderm Peak' (7310)
___________________________________________________
1983
*24Jul
Surveyors Knoll' (6253)
USGS Damnation Peak
*
24Jul Le Grand Sein/Mamook' (6456)
USGS Damnation Peak
*
7Aug The Adolescent'/Black Beard" (7241)
*
13Aug The One-Eyed Bull' (8120+)
*?14Aug
The Cheshire Cat'
*
25Aug Ozymandias Peak' (7647)
*
26Sep Pato Peak' (6800)
*
26Sep Alrac Peak' (6720+)
*
29Sep Whale Peak' (6559)
*
29Sep Razors Edge' (6000+)
___________________________________________________
1984
*
2Jun Majestic Mtn (7520+)
*
2Jun Majestic 3' (7440+)
*
16Jun The Addict' (~7300)
*
16Jun North Benzarino (7720+)
*
22Jul The Turret' (~7600)
*
23Jul Dumbo Pk' (7520+)
*
28Jul Daemon Peak' (7514)
*
28Jul Silhouette Pk' (7274)
*
28Jul S Silly Pk' (7040+)
*
28Jul N Silly Pk' (6977)
*
12Aug Obscure Peak' (6980)
*
19Aug Native Knoll'
*
20Aug Lonely Peak' (6800+)
*
20Aug Crackrap Pk' (6720+)
*
25Aug N Cheval de Frise' (~6300)
*
3Sep Yellow Tower' (8080+)
*
28Sep North Big Bosom' (6384)
______________________________________________________
1985
*
19May Kaiwhat Peak' (7145)
*
26May Louie Louie' (7782)
*
3Jul Eagles Beak' (8000+)
*
4Jul N Redoubt Pinnacle' (~8750)
*
4Jul S Redoubt Pinnacle' (~8700)
*
12Aug Spirea Spire' (~7100)
*
12Aug Yes Pk' (7109)
*
12Aug Oui! Oui!' (~7150)
*
12Aug Wish
Mtn' (7200+)
*
13Aug Alastor Mtn' (7326)
*
13Aug Xor' (~7300)
*
13Aug Cassiope Pk' (7800+)
*
13Aug Heather Pk (7928)
*
14Aug Id Pk' (7520+)
*
14Aug Conglomerate Pk' (~7700)
*
14Aug Lyall Ridge Pk (~7777)
_______________________________________________
1986
*
21Jun Starlet Pk' (8040+)
*
21Jun Seance Peak' (7982)
NR
Ghost
*
23Jul W Casper' (7760+)
*
9Aug Glissader Peak' (7680+)
*
13Aug W Tits on a Bull' (8000+)
*
13Aug Cocoon' (8151)
*
14Aug Neyah Point" (8100+)
*
14Aug 9 Peak' (8100+)
*
31Aug Dark Fin Tower' (7400+)
*
31Aug Anonymity Peak' (8000+)
*
2Sep Tragedy Peaks' (7800+)
______________________________________________________
1987
*
27Jun Baekos Peak' (7529)
*
28Jun Brown Mtn' (6800+)
*
28Jun Greenback Mtn' (6803)
*
29Jun Skalabats Pk' (6400+)
*
15Jul Little Shull' (7440+)
*
8Aug The Log' (7120+)
*
8Aug Snowflake' (7760+)
*
8Aug Snowball Peak' (7920+)
__________________________________________________
1988
*
21Jun Teddy Bear Peak' (5351)
*
25Jun Spock's Ear' (6200+)
*
6Aug Clean Peak' (6818)
*
6Aug Bath Peak' (6900+)
*
7Aug Quiet Ridge I' (7080+)
*
7Aug Quiet II' (7080+)
*
7Aug Quiet III' (6960+)
*
7Aug Quiet IV' (6960+)
*
7Aug Quiet V' (6840+)
*
7Aug Quiet VI' (6868)
*
7Aug Stone VIII' W Pinn (7200)
*
7Aug Stone VIII' E Pinn (7200)
*
7Aug Stonehenge VIII' (7346)
*
7Aug Stonehenge VI' (7382)
*
7Aug Stonehenge IV' (7300+)
*
7Aug Stonehenge III' (7300+)
*
7Aug Stonehenge II' (7200+)
*
8Aug 8/8/88 Peak' (7509)
*
13Aug Lykit Spire' (7800+)*
*
13Aug Leavit Spire' (7800-)
*
13Aug Hammerhead Peak' (7900+)*
*
13Aug Stinger Spire' (7800+)
*
13Aug The Bishop' (7300+)
*
13Aug Honeycomb Mtn' (7600+)
*
14Aug 8 Peak' (8000+)
*
14Aug 7 Peak' (8100+)
*
14Aug Pumice Peak' (7400+)
*
14Aug Bolt Peak' (6613)
*
18Aug Sumallo Peak (7700+)
Stonehenge Ridge
The
elevations listed above are from the 15-minute Glacier Peak map.
This photo
from NE shows the entire SHR, numbered east to west with current
map elevations: SHR 1 (7018)
left, behind tree, above Totem Pass, SH 2 (7260T),
blocky SH 3 (7280+)
in front of Glacier, SH 4 (7280+),
good-looking SH 5 ('7320+')
the actual high point of Stonehenge Ridge, SH 6 (7362)
which the map shows as the HP, SH 7 (7240+)
several little blocks, to SH 8 (7346)
on right. The Stone Pinnacles are the two little crags right
of SH 8.
August
7, 1988
Thanks
to Mark Allaback
1989
*
4May McKay Ridge Peak (7000+39)
*
12Aug Butterfly Wing' (7700+99)
* 7Oct Dough $ Mtn' (7840+)
Butterfly Wing'
Luahna on right.
August 12, 1989
Thanks to Rose Lochmann
1990
*
8Jul Steer Horn' (7640+)
*
13Aug SE Memaloose' (7265)
*
13Aug M Memaloose Pk' (7360+)
*
14Aug Goode Ridge (7680+)
*
15Aug Fractured Wyeth' (8040+)
*
15Aug Wyeth Not Peak' (8080+)
*
15Aug Hyeth Wyeth' (8120+)
*
15Aug Golden Peak' (7880+)
Memaloose Ridge
August 13-14, 1990
Thanks to Mark Allaback
1991
*w
24Feb Little Chief Peak (5416)
*
21Apr Bold Peak' (5040+)
*
19Jun Straight Ridge
*
30Aug Peak 7422-6680 = 742
*
30Aug Flagg Mtn' (7360+)
*
2Sep Cool Mtn' (7738)
1992
*25May
Ugly Stepsister' (6136)
*25May
Middle Sister Karen' (6280+)
*
7Jun Buk-Buk Spires (5500)
*
21Jun Phantom Pass Peak' (4754)
*
21Jun Blister Mountain' (5447)
*
1Aug Hyrax Peak' (8120+)
*
2Aug Big Snail' (7360+)
*
3Aug Whiteout Peak' (7649+)
*
4Aug Far Side Peak' (6840+)
*
6Aug Bearcat Peak (8035)
*
14Aug Cousins Peak' (6720+)
*
29Aug Kok-shut Peak'(5080+)
*
30Aug Snowslide Peak'(5000+)
*
30Aug Headwall Peak' (4988)
*
30Aug Anticlimax Point' (5080+)
1993-94
No
FAs
1995
*
23Jul Sasha Peak' (6604)
*
22Aug Nap Knoll'(5423)
*
22Aug Mt Morpheus'(5432)
*
15Oct Pugsley Peak' (4960+)
*
15Oct Mile High Mtn' (5280+)
1996
*
15Aug Pasture Peak' (5240)
1997
*
12Jul Rover Peak' (6505)
1998
*
4May Beefhide Butte'(8030)
*13Jun
Nameless Mtn'(6616)
*
13Jun Unspeakable'(6482)
*
13Jun Montana Sin Nombre'(6688)
*
13Jun Unnamed Mtn'(6438)
*
14Jun Little Sky'(5951)
*
28Jun Sam Hill'(4846)
1999
*10Jun
Ulalach(Onion)Mtn'(5040+)4
*10Jun
Aho Mtn'(5080+)2
*10Jun
Cedar Basin Butte'(5400+)2
*
31Jul Panther Tail'(6865)
* 16Sep Out Box'(5600+)
2000
*10Apr
Choker Mtn”(4672)400P
*10Apr
Lumbermill Mtn”(4750)1100P
*
12May Dead Duck Mtn'(4642)
2001
No
FAs
2002
*
20Jun Cadastral Point'(4811)291P
*
20Jun Mystic Ridge Peak'(5941)421P
*^20Jun
Mystic Mountain' (6574)534P
*16Oct Elementary Peak'(5960+)440P
2003
No FAs
2004
One FA
2005
*6Mar Nine Lives'
More Coming
Copyright
2004, John W. Roper. All Rights Reserved.
|