First Ascents in the Washington Cascades

On the way up these North Cascades peaks and pinnacles, we wondered if anyone had ever climbed them. Atop these summits, there was no evidence of previous ascent. 

Many thanks to my friends named below who came along, delighting and suffering. These peaks are presented in chronologic order of our climbs.  This a work in progress, starting with scanning and posting photos.  Stories will follow.  It's a lot quicker to climb them than write about them. Come on back.

Thumbnails link to a page about that peak or the quad. Click 'Back' (not X) to return to this summary page.

John Roper

'   indicates the peak name applied by our party

"  indicates other unofficial name

Elevations listed are generally those that were on the map at the time of the climb. So elevations that may seem peculiar now are likely those shown on the 15-minute USGS quads rather than the newer 7.5-minute quads.

First Ascent Cell Map of the North Cascades  (Big version)

Thanks to Eric Noel

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1944-1970 peaks are on this page.

FAs (first ascents) start in 1966.

1971-76

1977-78

1979-80

1981

1982

1983

1984

1985

1986-90

1991-2000

2001-2005

2005

2008

1944

 

Newhalem, WA

Viewed from Trappers Peak

Map

Born in 1944, I was lucky to grow up in the middle of the mountains before they were civilized, when Newhalem was the very end of the road, and from there, a train only ran to Diablo Dam. You could take a boat up Diablo and Ross Lakes, but otherwise travel was on foot.

This was before the North Cascades National Park (1968) and its popularity, before the North Cross-State Highway (1972), before detailed guidebooks and guided mountain tours, before flagged routes up pristine wilderness mountainsides and bootpaths through the bush, before raft trips down the Skagit, even before contour maps to the land east of Newhalem, before the internet, and websites.  It's not the same now as it was then. I was lucky enough to find these nuggets still laying in the bottom of the pan.

My heartfelt thanks to my parents, Virginia Roper and Jack Roper,

and my sister, Maurine.

 

1953

Little Si

at the base of Mount Si

USGS North Bend  

Map

My first "mountain." 

Not a first ascent (FA), of course

Age 9

July 1953

 

1963

 

Trappers Peak

USGS Mount Triumph  

Map

My first wilderness peak

No evidence of previous ascent, but not a first ascent

Viewed from Newhalem. Camp Nurse Mountain on right.

June 15, 1963

Thanks to Tex and Monte Steere

 

1966-1970

5 Years

15 FA Peaks

On 5 Quads

 

1966

* 12Jul The Roost' (6705)             USGS Mount Triumph

* 28Jul X Mountain' (5965)          USGS Mount Triumph

* 28Jul Arc de Triumph' (6080+)   USGS Mount Triumph

 

1967

* 23Jul    Damnation Peak (5635)   USGS Damnation Peak

* 26Aug The Bat' (6475)                 USGS Eldorado Peak

* 27Aug The Coccyx' (7280+)        USGS Eldorado Peak

* 27Aug Perdition Peak' (7675)     USGS Eldorado Peak

1968

* 12Jun Honeymoon Hump' (7690)      USGS Mount Arriva

* 22Aug Mt Holyoke'/Katsuk (8680+) USGS Mount Logan

* 23Aug Little J-Berg'/Arches' (7945) USGS Mount Arriva

* 24Aug Cub Peak' (7985)                    USGS Mount Arriva

* 24Aug Kitling Peak (8003)                 USGS Mount Arriva

 

1969

* 14Jun Baby Cheek' (7360+)              USGS Mount Arriva

 

1970

* 6Jun Ragged End'/Cosho (8332)         USGS Mount Logan

* 7Jun Gendarmes Pk'/Kimtah (8600+) USGS Mount Logan

___________________________________________

1966

The Roost'

USGS Mount Triumph  

Map

My First First Ascent (FA)

July 12,1966

Thanks to Taffy Roper

 

 

X Mtn'

The shark fin right of center

Trappers Peak on left

USGS Mount Triumph  

Map

July 28, 1966

Thanks to Bill Chase and Taffy

 

 

Arc de Triumph'

USGS Mount Triumph  

Map

Thornton Lake in foreground, Mount Triumph through left notch

July 28, 1966

Thanks to Bill Chase and Taffy

 

_____________________________________________ 

1967

 

Damnation Peak (per map )

USGS Damnation Peak  

Map

July 23, 1967

Solo

 

The Bat'

USGS Eldorado Peak  

Map

August 26,1967

Thanks to Phil Dahl

 

The Coccyx'

USGS Eldorado Peak 

Map

August 27, 1967

Thanks to Phil Dahl

 

 

Backbone Ridge'

(L) to (R) Perdition Peak', In Spirit Peak',

Cervical Peak', Thoracic Peak', Lumbar Peak'

USGS Eldorado Peak

Map

August 27, 1967, July 30-31, 1972, August 15, 1981

Thanks to Phil Dahl, Steve Shelton, Theresa Smith, Silas Wild, and Russ Kroeker

Photo by Monte Steere

 

 

Backbone Ridge'                            

(L) to (R) Perdition', In Spirit', Cervical', The Osteophyte',

Thoracic', Lumbar', Herniated Disc', and The Sacrum'

 

Perdition Peak'

USGS Eldorado Peak  

Map

August 27, 1967

Solo

_____________________________________________

 

1968

 

Honeymoon Hump'

center, Kitling Peak right, Mesahchie Peak left

USGS Mount Arriva  

Map

June 12, 1968

Thanks to Chris Roper

 

Ragged Ridge

(L) to (R): Ragged End' (Cosho), Gendarmes Peak' (Kimtah), Mount Holyoke' (Katsuk),

Panther Peak' (Mesahchie). Little J-Berg in foreground.

USGS Mount Logan and Mount Arriva

August 22-24, 1968 and June 6-7, 1970

Thanks to Chris Roper and Jerry Swanson

Photo by John Meulemans

 

Mount Holyoke' (Katsuk Peak)

on right, Panther Peak' (Mesahchie Peak) left

Little J-Berg ' to right of Katsuk

USGS Mount Arriva  

Map

August 22, 1968

Thanks to Chris Roper (our ascent was the second on Mesahchie)

See Top 100 page

 

Little J-Berg'  (Arches')

USGS Mount Arriva  

Map

August 23, 1968

Thanks to Chris Roper

 

Cub Peak'

USGS Mount Arriva   

Map

August 24, 1968

Thanks to Chris Roper

 

Kitling (Don't') Peak

on right. Honeymoon Hump' in front of Mesahchie Peak left center

USGS Mount Arriva   

Map

August 24, 1968

Thanks to Chris Roper

_________________________________________

 

1969

 

Baby Cheek' landform

Right of Graybeard Peak' (done June 17, 1969 on its 2nd Ascent)

Easy Pass just off the photo to right

USGS Mount Arriva

Map

June 16, 1969

Thanks to Tex and Monte Steere

 

_________________________________________________ 

1970

 

Ragged End' (aka Cosho Peak)

on left, Thieves Peak', right

USGS Mount Logan

Map

June 6, 1970

Thanks to Jerry Swanson

See #92 of Top 100 Peaks in WA

 

 

Gendarmes Peak' (Kimtah Peak)

and Ragged End' (Cosho Peak)

USGS Mount Logan 

Map

June 7, 1970

Thanks to Jerry Swanson

See #46 of Top 100 Peaks in WA

_________________________________________________________

1971-76  page

6 Years

11 FA Peaks

On 4 Quads

1971

* 18Sep Newhalem Peaks' (6920+) USGS Eldorado Peak

 

1972

* 2Jul Thunder Peak' (8800+) USGS Eldorado Peak

* 30Jul Lumbar Peak' (7040+) USGS Eldorado Peak

* 30Jul Thoracic Peak' (7170) USGS Eldorado Peak

* 30Jul Cervical Peak' (7360) USGS Eldorado Peak

* 31Jul In Spirit Peak' (7480) USGS Eldorado Peak

 

1973

* 7Jul The Blip' (7400) USGS Mt. Challenger

* 11Aug The Tack'(7400+) USGS Mount Arriva

* 12Aug New Morning Peak'(7230) USGS Mount Arriva

 

1974-75 No FAs

 

1976

* 8May  The Haystack (7139)    USGS Diablo Dam

* 25Jul   Mt Benzarino (7720+) USGS McGregor Mountain

__________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________

 

1977-78 page

2 Years

14 FA Peaks

On 6 Quads

1977

*? 5Aug Interloper'/Berdeen' Peak (6400+)  USGS Damnation Peak

1978

* 6May Logger Butte' (6080+)     USGS Damnation Peak

* 4Jun The Trap' (6960+)              USGS Cascade Pass

* 17Jun Highest Hellion' (6324)   USGS Big Devil Peak

* 17Jun Hellion II'  (6240+)            USGS Big Devil Peak

* 4Jul Gendharma' (7740+)           USGS Mount Spickard

* 4Jul Traquility Gendarme'(7374) USGS Mount Spickard

* 29Jul The Saint' (7185)              USGS Mount Prophet

* 30Jul The Sinner' (7035)            USGS Mount Prophet

* 30Jul The Apostle' (6910)           USGS Mount Spickard

* 30Jul The Epistle' (6782)             USGS Mount Spickard

* 30Jul  Revelations Peak'             USGS Mount Spickard

* 26Sep Monument Peak (8592) USGS Mount Lago

            See #48 of Top 100 Peaks in WA

* 15Oct Borborygmi'/Rhino Butte'(6914)  USGS Mount Prophet

_________________________________________________________________

 

1979-80 page

2 Years

19 FA Peaks

On  8 Quads

1979

* 2Aug Jagged I' (7882)                  USGS Mount Shuksan

* 11Aug Mad Eagle Peak' (8111)  USGS Mount Redoubt

* 12Aug Moving Mtn' (8080+)         USGS Mount Redoubt

*?13Aug Cave Mountain' (7456)    USGS Mount Redoubt

*?13Aug Old Rust' (7523)              USGS Mount Redoubt

* 14Aug Taps Mountain' (7087)     USGS Mount Redoubt

 

1980

* 1Jun ExSpire' (5999-)             USGS Eldorado Peak

* 5Jul Tombstone' (7895)          USGS Mount Spickard

* 5Jul Solitude' (8405)               USGS Mount Spickard

* 27Jul Squatter' (6719/6680+) USGS Mount Blum

* 27Jul Panner' (6800+/6944)    USGS Mount Blum

* 29Jul Iota' (7680+/7800+)       USGS Mount Challenger

* 29Jul Thayers Nightmare' (7997-) USGS Mount Challenger

* 29Jul Apparition' (7998-)          USGS Mount Challenger

* 29Jul Spectre' (7999-)              USGS Mount Challenger

* 31Jul Fury Finger' (8080+)       USGS Mount Challenger

* 31Jul N Dog Ear' (7840+)        USGS Mount Challenger

* 24Sep W Helen Butte (5499-)  USGS Marblemount

* 10Oct Three Wives' (7450)      USGS McAlester Mountain

_______________________________________________________________

1981

* 26Apr The Supervisor'

* 26Apr Wireman'

* 26Apr Senior Operator'

* 26Apr Machinist'

* 31May Styloid Peak' (6972)

* 31May Distal Phalanx' (7615)

* 3Jul Tara Pk' (6723)

* 11Jul Dirk Peak' (7640+)

* 27Jul Devils Toothpick' (7720+)

* 28Jul W by NW Mox' (8080+)

* 15Aug The Sacrum' (7148)

* 15Aug Pancake Pinnacle' (7080+)

* 23Aug S Hoot Owl' (7960+)

* 23Aug N Hoot Owl' (7920+)

* 14Sep Derci Spire' (8000+)

* 14Sep Obsession Spire' (7360+)

* 17Sep Zebra Spire' (8000+)

* 17Sep V Peak' (8000+)

* 25Oct Ezekiel' (7521)

__________________________________________________________

1982

* 30May Blink Mtn (6766)

* 30May Rapid Peak (7259)

* 19Jun Fallen Angel' (6840)

* 19Jun Hellion III'

* 19Jun Hellion VI'

* 20Jun Hunich Pipe' (~6700)

* 17Jul The Horseman (~8100)

* 7Aug W Nail' (~8000)

* 7Aug E Nail' (~8000)

* 7Aug W Horseshoe Pk' (~8000)

* 22Aug Gramps Peak' (6680+)

* 24Aug Goose Step Pinnacle' (7400+)

* 25Aug Goat Hoof' (7100)

* 25Aug Primrose Peak' (7160+)

* 25Aug Rim Rock Peak' (7240+)

* 25Aug Flat Peak' (7100)

* 26Aug Sister Sarah' (7000+)

* 26Aug Sister Habiba' (7160+)

* 26Aug Sister Sue' (6809)

* 26Aug Little Sister' (6785)

* 5Sep Beheaded Dog Burying Bone' (7035)

*19Sep Pachyderm Peak' (7310)

___________________________________________________          

1983

*24Jul   Surveyors Knoll' (6253)                       USGS Damnation Peak

* 24Jul Le Grand Sein/Mamook' (6456)         USGS Damnation Peak

* 7Aug The Adolescent'/Black Beard" (7241)

* 13Aug The One-Eyed Bull' (8120+)

*?14Aug The Cheshire Cat'

* 25Aug Ozymandias Peak' (7647)

* 26Sep Pato Peak' (6800)

* 26Sep Alrac Peak' (6720+)

* 29Sep Whale Peak' (6559)

* 29Sep Razors Edge' (6000+)

___________________________________________________

                                                                       

1984

* 2Jun Majestic Mtn (7520+)

* 2Jun Majestic 3' (7440+)

* 16Jun The Addict' (~7300)

* 16Jun North Benzarino (7720+)

* 22Jul The Turret' (~7600)

* 23Jul Dumbo Pk' (7520+)

* 28Jul Daemon Peak' (7514)

* 28Jul Silhouette Pk' (7274)

* 28Jul S Silly Pk' (7040+)

* 28Jul N Silly Pk' (6977)

* 12Aug Obscure Peak' (6980)

* 19Aug Native Knoll'

* 20Aug Lonely Peak' (6800+)

* 20Aug Crackrap Pk' (6720+)

* 25Aug N Cheval de Frise' (~6300)

* 3Sep Yellow Tower' (8080+)

* 28Sep North Big Bosom' (6384)

______________________________________________________

1985

* 19May Kaiwhat Peak' (7145)

* 26May Louie Louie' (7782)

* 3Jul Eagles Beak' (8000+)

* 4Jul N Redoubt Pinnacle' (~8750)

* 4Jul S Redoubt Pinnacle' (~8700)

* 12Aug Spirea Spire' (~7100)

* 12Aug Yes Pk' (7109)

* 12Aug Oui! Oui!' (~7150)

* 12Aug Wish Mtn' (7200+)

* 13Aug Alastor Mtn' (7326)

* 13Aug Xor' (~7300)

* 13Aug Cassiope Pk' (7800+)

* 13Aug Heather Pk (7928)

* 14Aug Id Pk' (7520+)

* 14Aug Conglomerate Pk' (~7700)

* 14Aug Lyall Ridge Pk (~7777)

_______________________________________________

1986

* 21Jun Starlet Pk' (8040+)

* 21Jun Seance Peak' (7982)

NR Ghost

* 23Jul W Casper' (7760+)

* 9Aug Glissader Peak' (7680+)

* 13Aug W Tits on a Bull' (8000+)

* 13Aug Cocoon' (8151)

* 14Aug Neyah Point" (8100+)

* 14Aug 9 Peak' (8100+)

* 31Aug Dark Fin Tower' (7400+)

* 31Aug Anonymity Peak' (8000+)

* 2Sep Tragedy Peaks' (7800+)

______________________________________________________

1987

* 27Jun Baekos Peak' (7529)

* 28Jun Brown Mtn' (6800+)

* 28Jun Greenback Mtn' (6803)

* 29Jun Skalabats Pk' (6400+)

* 15Jul Little Shull' (7440+)

* 8Aug The Log' (7120+)

* 8Aug Snowflake' (7760+)

* 8Aug Snowball Peak' (7920+)

__________________________________________________

1988

* 21Jun Teddy Bear Peak' (5351)

* 25Jun Spock's Ear' (6200+)

* 6Aug Clean Peak' (6818)

* 6Aug Bath Peak' (6900+)

* 7Aug Quiet Ridge I' (7080+)

* 7Aug Quiet II' (7080+)

* 7Aug Quiet III' (6960+)

* 7Aug Quiet IV' (6960+)

* 7Aug Quiet V' (6840+)

* 7Aug Quiet VI' (6868)

* 7Aug Stone VIII' W Pinn (7200)

* 7Aug Stone VIII' E Pinn (7200)

* 7Aug Stonehenge VIII' (7346)

* 7Aug Stonehenge VI' (7382)

* 7Aug Stonehenge IV' (7300+)

* 7Aug Stonehenge III' (7300+)

* 7Aug Stonehenge II' (7200+)

* 8Aug 8/8/88 Peak' (7509)

* 13Aug Lykit Spire' (7800+)*

* 13Aug Leavit Spire' (7800-)

* 13Aug Hammerhead Peak' (7900+)*

* 13Aug Stinger Spire' (7800+)

* 13Aug The Bishop' (7300+)

* 13Aug Honeycomb Mtn' (7600+)

* 14Aug 8 Peak' (8000+)

* 14Aug 7 Peak' (8100+)

* 14Aug Pumice Peak' (7400+)

* 14Aug Bolt Peak' (6613)

* 18Aug Sumallo Peak (7700+)

 

Stonehenge Ridge

The elevations listed above are from the 15-minute Glacier Peak map.

This photo from NE shows the entire SHR, numbered east to west with current map elevations: SHR 1 (7018) left, behind tree, above Totem Pass, SH 2 (7260T), blocky SH 3 (7280+) in front of Glacier, SH 4 (7280+), good-looking SH 5 ('7320+') the actual high point of Stonehenge Ridge, SH 6 (7362) which the map shows as the HP, SH 7 (7240+) several little blocks, to SH 8 (7346) on right.  The Stone Pinnacles are the two little crags right of SH 8.

August 7, 1988

Thanks to Mark Allaback

 

1989

* 4May McKay Ridge Peak (7000+39)

* 12Aug Butterfly Wing' (7700+99)

* 7Oct Dough $ Mtn' (7840+)

Butterfly Wing'

Luahna on right.

August 12, 1989

Thanks to Rose Lochmann

1990

* 8Jul Steer Horn' (7640+)

* 13Aug SE Memaloose' (7265)

* 13Aug M Memaloose Pk' (7360+)

* 14Aug Goode Ridge (7680+)

* 15Aug Fractured Wyeth' (8040+)

* 15Aug Wyeth Not Peak' (8080+)

* 15Aug Hyeth Wyeth' (8120+)

* 15Aug Golden Peak' (7880+)

 

Memaloose Ridge

August 13-14, 1990

Thanks to Mark Allaback

1991

*w 24Feb Little Chief Peak (5416)

*   21Apr Bold Peak' (5040+)

*  19Jun Straight Ridge

*   30Aug Peak 7422-6680 = 742

*   30Aug Flagg Mtn' (7360+)

*   2Sep Cool Mtn' (7738)

1992

*25May Ugly Stepsister' (6136)

*25May Middle Sister Karen' (6280+)

* 7Jun Buk-Buk Spires (5500)

* 21Jun Phantom Pass Peak' (4754)

* 21Jun Blister Mountain' (5447)

* 1Aug Hyrax Peak' (8120+)

* 2Aug Big Snail' (7360+)

* 3Aug Whiteout Peak' (7649+)

* 4Aug Far Side Peak' (6840+)

* 6Aug Bearcat Peak (8035)

* 14Aug Cousins Peak' (6720+)

* 29Aug Kok-shut Peak'(5080+)

* 30Aug Snowslide Peak'(5000+)

* 30Aug Headwall Peak' (4988)

* 30Aug Anticlimax Point' (5080+)

1993-94

No FAs

1995

* 23Jul Sasha Peak' (6604)

* 22Aug Nap Knoll'(5423)

* 22Aug Mt Morpheus'(5432)

* 15Oct Pugsley Peak' (4960+)

* 15Oct Mile High Mtn' (5280+)

1996

* 15Aug Pasture Peak' (5240)

1997

* 12Jul Rover Peak' (6505)

1998

* 4May Beefhide Butte'(8030)

*13Jun Nameless Mtn'(6616)

* 13Jun Unspeakable'(6482)

* 13Jun Montana Sin Nombre'(6688)

* 13Jun Unnamed Mtn'(6438)

* 14Jun Little Sky'(5951)

* 28Jun Sam Hill'(4846)

1999

*10Jun Ulalach(Onion)Mtn'(5040+)4

*10Jun Aho Mtn'(5080+)2

*10Jun Cedar Basin Butte'(5400+)2

* 31Jul Panther Tail'(6865)

* 16Sep Out Box'(5600+)

 

2000

*10Apr Choker Mtn”(4672)400P

*10Apr Lumbermill Mtn”(4750)1100P

* 12May Dead Duck Mtn'(4642)

2001

No FAs

2002

* 20Jun Cadastral Point'(4811)291P

* 20Jun Mystic Ridge Peak'(5941)421P

*^20Jun Mystic Mountain' (6574)534P

*16Oct Elementary Peak'(5960+)440P

2003

No FAs

2004

One FA

2005

*6Mar  Nine Lives'

More Coming

Copyright 2004, John W. Roper. All Rights Reserved.